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#2
11-16-2009, 10:02 PM
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07/m8 Terraalps 900 bigbore kit, bmp ypipe and exhaust,jaws silencer,stm valves,bdx oil elimination and bumper kit,fastlane no snows,bdx fuel pressure regulator,dayton adj weights,shift assist,timbersled intake,timbersled mtn tamer rear skid,timbersled barkbuster frt end with fox evols diamond s hood,pure logic box,boss shorty seat,rox risers,koso dual egts koso a/r guage koso water temp guage,bdx steering post solidifier,fastlane 9 inch two wheel kit,rock rollers,Mod ski's 
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#3
11-16-2009, 10:40 PM
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On that RER secondary there are 3 10M bolts in the center of the clutch
by loosening them and turning the adjustment ring towards a higher number which will make the belt ride higher in your sheaves or to a lower number which will allow the belt to ride lower in the sheaves, thus producing more deflection. if you have a piece of pipe or something to use as a straight edge you can lay it across the primary and secondary and then using a wooden ruler you can push down in the middle and take a measurement ...I think a good number is between an inch and in and a 1/4.. then is you raise the rear of your sled and start it up wick it up a couple of times and then see how high your belt is on your secondary ...should stick up out of the sheaves about an 1/8 of an inch or a little less and then what you can do is make sure that you are running maximum take a felt marker and draw a straight line on the inside of your primary top to bottom on the inside under the belt ... start your sled again and wick it up ..shut it down and you will be able to see how far your belt actually rides up when it shifts out on your primary ...not riding all of the way means your secondary needs to be loosened... kinda like ..hope that helps Last edited by H2SNOW; 11-20-2009 at 10:59 AM.
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#4
11-17-2009, 07:05 AM
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New belts will almost always drop your RPM until you get some miles on them. Try to break in a new belt on the ride back to the truck so when you need it it'll be ready to go.
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#6
11-19-2009, 07:24 AM
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-Belts can vary in length 1/4" -+ from spec. Years ago I measured an 8607 that was 5/8 inch longer than spec.
-Owners can choose belts with different lengths. (Skidoo belt application chart) The video I linked below is pretty well what I set mine like or any other sled up for good all around deflection. What you are doing by setting this kind of deflection is eliminating a calibration problem that can come from the varying belt length. You are making sure that the right tension is going to be measured regardless of belt length or width. The sled is with the track off the ground. Engine idling if the track can turn slowly or the track jerks a little bit, trying to turn, or does not turn however you can grab a track lug with your index finger thus pulling the track around - all while the engine is idling. On the mxz/rev chassis with HPV secondary (RER) as the cam number increase, the belt tension will get tighter. With this kind of deflection I never let my engine idle too long. There are 4~5 cogs wrapped around the stub of the primary and the temperature gets high localized in that area. Excessive idling contributes to why belts will blow about 4~5 cogs off and you hear that "puk puk puk" just before the belt incinerates. The temperature in that localized area will change the composition of the rubber making it a harder material; eventually separation will happen....BoOm! Deflection video
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#7
11-19-2009, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
figured it had something to do with deflection but i always just set it till the cords are = to the top of the secondary.... 
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#9
11-20-2009, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Felt pen marks are probably put there to make sure you are getting full shift of both clutches. If you still see ink on the sheeves after a ride (with some full throttle pulls) then your clutches are not shifting out totally.
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