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Old 11-13-2009, 01:16 PM
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REV4ARUSH REV4ARUSH is offline
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Arrow XP and XR clutch tower braces

Hey guys, I am selling Racewerx XP and XR clutch tower brace kits. Here are some of the highlights:

>Highest quality race components
*lightweight fully polished alluminum main tube
*lightweight chromoly rod ends
*billet 6061 alluminum clevis nut
*lightweight billet alluminum shock tower mount(patent pending)
*stainless button head fasteners
>EASY 10 minute installation
>NO DRILLING INTO YOUR EXPENSIVE FRAME
>Optimized angle engineered to create a true triangle that effectively limits secondary clutch tower movement
>Effectively gets more HP to the track by reducing drivetrain friction and binding
>Clutches run cooler extending belt life

Kits are in stock ready to ship. Prices are $188.00 shipped for the XP 800 E-tec's, XP 800r's and XP 600 E-tec's $219.00 shipped for the XR kits. The XR kits include a fully machined engine stopper kit to help with the engine movement on these sleds. The engine stopper is also available separately for $89.95 shipped.

PM me if you have any more questions. You will not be disappointed in the quality of this kit.
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File Type: jpg XP brace kit.jpg (31.2 KB, 224 views)

Last edited by REV4ARUSH; 11-02-2010 at 12:54 PM.
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Old 11-13-2009, 01:19 PM
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Here is a picture of the XR brace kit for the new 1200 sleds
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Old 11-13-2009, 01:20 PM
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And here is a picture of the XR engine stopper.
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Old 11-13-2009, 01:29 PM
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The purpose of this post is not only to explain why the Racewerx clutch tower brace is superior in quality, design, and more importantly, function, but to also explain why every performance minded XP-XR owner should be using a secondary clutch tower brace.

Why there is a need for one:
The traditional jackshaft mounting is just above the tunnel about 1" away. This is a very solid point at which there is not much leverage on the secondary clutch. This will be very similar to using a "stubby" rachet. The XP-XR chassis mounts the secondary about 8" above the tunnel. While this is an excellent concept for the extra legroom they achieved, the downside is that it has allowed a large amount of leverage to be added to the secondary clutch. This is very similar to swapping out that "stubby" rachet with a 8" rachet- all of a sudden it becomes alot easier to move that clutch! This movement in the clutch tower is caused by the motor trying to pull the two clutches together. This is very critical as I will explain later. This movement in extreme cases has resulted in the clutch tower becoming seperated from the tunnel, destroying the tunnel. Considering the fact that there are only 3-- 6mm bolts holding the clutch tower to the tunnel and 1 cross tube above the carbs holding the tower from flexing helps explain why there are so many more issues with the higher horsepower sleds. (800 Summits & XP's)

When this tower starts to flex and pull towards the motor many things occur; The clutches become misaligned which causes friction which in turn creates higher heat in the clutches. This higher heat is then transferred into that little rubber belt causing premature belt failure. Any knowledgable clutch tuner will tell you that heat is the enemy of clutches and belts and eliminating it will help performance and longevity of clutching components and those $$$$expensive belts! Venting kits help reduce the heat but act as more of a "band aid" for the real problem causing the higher heat--which is misalignment. Solve the source of the problem--add some vents to keep them running even cooler and you are putting more horsepower to the track where it counts! Another often overlooked issue when the tower flexes is the added side load on the chaincase bearing and the side plates of the drive chain--again causing more friction which robs more horsepower. Add all of this up and every little bit of friction that you can reduce will add up to increased horsepower at the track!

I have seen time and time again on a track dyno where the exact same sled with nothing else done to it besides chassis blueprinting---eliminating friction by aligning clutches,chaincase,driveshaft, and suspension resulted in 5+ horsepower to the track! Many people will spend hundreds of dollars on clutch kits and performance mods only to have much of the added benefits of the mods get lost in friction because of of the clutch tower becoming misaligned! The higher the horsepower the more it flexes! The cheapest way to to maximize track horsepower is to minimize friction within the chassis---just because you did not blow belts last season does not mean that you will not benefit from a clutch tower brace--lets face it --blowing belts is no fun even if Ski-Doo is paying for them--the mess and bent parts associated with them can ruin your weekend and your clutch cover! The clutch tower brace is actually one of the cheapest performance mods you can make as far as track horsepower is concerned and they cost about as much as some of the new belts available so they pay for themselves after the first blown belt that you don't have.

We first recgnized a need for a brace when the 600RS hit the snow in the fall of 07. Snocross racing puts a tremendous test on chassis components. We have been involved with Snocross racing for many years and know first hand the saying "in order to finish first-first you must finish" This is why we were not the first one to get our kit on the market. While there is alot of money to be made by being the "first" to have a kit on the market there is also a fine balance as far as durability is concerned. Only long term testing will tell the whole story as far as how the part will affect the rest of the chassis. For example, drilling a hole in your expensive chassis might be fine if you are drag racing on ice or grass (as long as you make sure the bolts stay tight) but what happens when you slam into that huge hole and your left front shock bottoms out hard...Where does all of that force go? Into your chassis--just like it was designed to do. Now here's where it gets interesting...I'm sure Ski-Doo has done countless hrs of stress testing on this chassis and I'm also pretty sure that putting holes in a stressed member of the chassis will eventually lead to some failures down the road depending how hard you ride and what you slam into. Again if you are drag racing only there is very little stress on that part of the chassis and you should be ok. What was done correctly was creating a triangle between the clutches and the chassis. This provides a very strong "box" if you will. Another very important thing to note is what happens when you bottom out the front shock and the forces are then transferred to the chassis. Now you have created a super strong triangle between the clutch tower and the front frame and forces are actually transferred back into the clutch tower! This is not really an issue for the tower to handle the extra force but that hole that you just drilled into the stressed member might not fare as well. This is also why a clamp on kit for the upper tube, while better than drilling a hole into the chassis, has its downside too. The reason the clamp is rotating is more likely from the impact of bottoming out and the force having nowhere to go vs the clutch tower moving enough to rotate it. The other downside to the clamp on the frame tube is the fact that that tube is very thin. And by clamping that high you have eliminated some of the triangle effect and turned it into a pivoting effect on the heim joints instead--this comes into effect from what I said earlier about the clutches pulling towards each other, not the secondary pushing up towards the frame tube...again creating more of a pivoting effect that an actual pushing effect like the other two braces.

So now that you have a technical background of what's going on here, I'll explain why The Racewerx brace kit is built the way it is:

Main tube: The Racewerx main tube is made from 6061-T6 sweged hollow tubing. There are three reason for this; 1-lightest weight possible while maintaining very high strength. 2-Bling effect-polished tube looks very trick! 3-Most importantly, Is the "fuse" of the whole system--meaning that if you happened to bottom out your front suspension and you are hard on the gas pulling those clutches together all at the same time and that force that I spoke about earlier has nowhere to go it will flex the main tube. Worst case scenario-you can simply replace the main tube if you bend it--much cheaper and easier than a main frame or frame tube! Very similar to the trailing arm days--trailing arm bends instead of the frame--make the trailing arm too strong and then you end up replacing the frame when you hit something! The hex shaft used is somewhat rigid, but the solid round shaft used on the clamp on kit is very rigid(no flex factor). In an extreme situation something else will have to give..

Heim joints: Racewerx Chromoly

Fasteners: Racewerx-Stainless steel button head bolts. 1-corrosion resistance. 2-lightest bolt next to titanium. 3-stainless steel nylock nuts 4-Bling effect Other kits--Zinc plated standard bolts

Mounting brackets: This is where the biggest difference lies--Racewerx uses a billet 6061-T6 clevis nut to replace the existing clutch tower nut--this is very similar to the clamp on kit but differs from the SHR mounting. The Shock tower mount (patent pending) used in the Racewerx kit is made from 6061-T6 aluminum and is CAD designed. Main advantages; 1-simple bolt on piece that is specially machined to match the machined shock tower on the XP-XR. This is simply the strongest place to mount and the easiest on the XP-XR chassis. Due to the matched machined surfaces from the factory and our matching piece,we have eliminated the possibility of the bracket turning under load. 2- CAD designed optimum angle to create the triangle that I spoke of earlier,effectively limiting movement of the clutch tower. 3- lightest weight possible--much lighter than the frame tube clamp and much easier to install than the drill through the frame kit. 4-Again, bling effect.

There you have it! I hope I have shed some light on what goes into making the highest quality, longest lasting, trickest looking kits on the market!

This is why our kit costs a little more-we have created a kit that is the best in all of the above categories and doesn't compromise the integrity of the sled. There is a purpose for each part in this kit to be what it is. Yes, I could make it cheaper to compete with the other kits on the market but I would be sacrificing something in each of the above categories and I am not willing to do that-it doesn't matter how cheap it is-if it doesn't work right, or you are compromising durability, you are wasting your money...

Thanks for your consideration in our Clutch tower brace kits. I hope this has answered most of your questions!
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Old 11-14-2009, 09:26 AM
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Nice write-up Rev4! I put one of your braces on my 09 from new and never had any of the problems that plagued many other riders. Great product!
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Old 11-17-2009, 03:40 AM
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Nice write up, I don't ride Doo's but always wondered why they were having so much belt problems (800's and such). Now it's explained, makes sense. If I rode Doo's I'd have your kit, nice work.
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Old 11-17-2009, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuckinfuts View Post
Nice write up, I don't ride Doo's but always wondered why they were having so much belt problems (800's and such). Now it's explained, makes sense. If I rode Doo's I'd have your kit, nice work.

Thanks fella.
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Old 11-02-2010, 12:55 PM
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Hey Guys, we have kits in stock now for the new 800 E-tec's...I just brought my new Summit home and can't wait to ride it!!!
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:49 AM
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When I took delivery in Aug 07 of my 08 TNT and took it apart to build it into a mtn sled I immediately knew I had to make a brace for the clutch tower. When you take the secondary/jack shaft out you see the jack shaft perched up in the air
about 6.5 " above the bulkhead without much more THAN AIR supporting it. Over on dootalk even 500SS's over the past couple years have busted the tower loose from the bulkhead. When it comes loose, misalignment of both jack shaft bearings, clutches may slam together and may wreck the chain case.

Here's a pic of that tower without the secondary on. Every XP needs a brace
bad!!!!
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