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  #21  
Old 11-10-2016, 02:01 PM
Jens Jens is offline
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Been working on the fanner. Its now assembled again it's now a 137". With 2.25 challenger extreme. Small profile cut on the lugs. Anti stab kit. Billet idler wheels. No slip drivers. Limiter straps in short position. Timbersled ski. Straight ski mount.
Cant remember my exact jettings on it. But its awesome.
Will look into maybe tension the spring in the secondary clutch. But will play with that after some test rides once its enough snow outside.


Was going to put the TLS on the fanner. When i inspected it during cleaning. One of the frictionplates was broken completly in half. No wonder i was having problems on the 600 at the end of the season.

Sent an email to MST and 2 new plates and shipping to sweden is 150$. +25% import taxes. I think i will run the old beltdrive for now. Have 2 nice belts for the fanner. When they blow up i will probably change then.
I think i have read about people welding the TLS on this forum. If anyone has tried it. Please comment.

Also. Need to change oil on my daughters snowmobile Winter is here. And stuff needs to get done.

Parts are still coming in for the 154' project. Time to start working on the 600 from now on
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Last edited by Jens; 11-11-2016 at 01:34 PM.
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  #22  
Old 11-11-2016, 11:33 AM
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Has anyone had problems with the smaller belt drive on the 503????
Thought they were pretty solid. Definatly way lighter.
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  #23  
Old 11-11-2016, 01:23 PM
Jens Jens is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roo View Post
Has anyone had problems with the smaller belt drive on the 503????
Thought they were pretty solid. Definatly way lighter.
No major problems what ive seen. The belt on the liquids are just wider and stronger so i figure it is better in the long run. I havent blown a belt on any of my hawks yet. I try to avoid full throtttle landings and im overall pretty careful with my stuff. Or at least i try to be.. as you say. The TLS weight may counteract any positives of changing from stock sprocket.
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Last edited by Jens; 11-11-2016 at 01:37 PM.
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  #24  
Old 11-14-2016, 12:09 PM
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Started up on the 600 project.

Made messurments for the drop and rolls today. Marked up what needs to get cut.

Also i have removed the inner axelshafts on the tmotion. These need to get cut down to correct width before i cut the outer axels. The upper wheels on the tmotion will be replaced by a anti stab kit axel with small wheels mounted at the same height as the stock ones but a couple of inches further forward. I cannot keep the stockwheels on if im going to get the right width to fit the suspension in the hawk.

Also got help from my father and his hydralic press. Now the steel jackshaft has bearings. And the no slip drivers was also pressed on the driveshaft.

Will proceed with installing jackshaft and clutch tomorrow.

My brother is helping me with cutting of the track.
Maybe he's done this week.. if i am lucky

All parts are here otherwise. So it all hangs on me wrenching as often as possible. I know im going to face a couple of roadblocs. Im going to think. And rethink again before i start cutting stuff up
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Last edited by Jens; 11-14-2016 at 02:00 PM.
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  #25  
Old 11-14-2016, 03:29 PM
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I've had bad luck with those little anti stab wheels eating up the bearings . I don't think they can work by themselves without the help of the hyfax to protect them . You might have better luck if you can use those fat small iddlers on the stock Xtreme skid because the bearings are stout or mount an idler bracket to the tunnel ?

I would almost bet that you will break the anti stab shaft first because it will give to the constant slapping of the track .

Best of luck
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  #26  
Old 11-15-2016, 02:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawkster View Post
I've had bad luck with those little anti stab wheels eating up the bearings . I don't think they can work by themselves without the help of the hyfax to protect them . You might have better luck if you can use those fat small iddlers on the stock Xtreme skid because the bearings are stout or mount an idler bracket to the tunnel ?

I would almost bet that you will break the anti stab shaft first because it will give to the constant slapping of the track .

Best of luck
Yes, sir.
I believe you are right. The anti stab is probably not beefy enough. I will slaughter the extreme suspension for parts and shaft and try to make that work instead.
Thank you for your input!
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  #27  
Old 11-15-2016, 03:18 PM
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My brother is cutting my track. 2.5" challenger extreme.

Installed the jackshaft today. And clutch.
I took the rear upper shaft with wheels from the extreme suspension. Gonna use it instead of the anti stab shaft. Its the correct width, complete with all the spacers for the wheels. So its just a direct bolt on

Took apart the t motion. Gonna take it away to a proper machine shop to get the axels cut down and get new threads made for the bolts. Could probably do it at home. But it would probably not be as good. And its pretty vital to get the cut exactly right.

Tomorrow i will buy a jiggsaw and hopefully the drop and rolls will get installed.
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  #28  
Old 11-16-2016, 10:51 AM
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New update.

The track is done. My brother will send it to me soon.
Looks really good! It was a real shit-sandwich cutting it. Took about 3 hours. Those lugs was so long that he needed to cut the track from both sides.

Left the suspension parts at the machineshop today. Will be awesome to get the suspension cut to fit the tunnel. When its done. I only need to assemble and start to check angles in the chassie with the track and drivers installed.

I cut and installed the drop and rolls today. Jiggsaw with metal blade and laserguide was really nice.. i was a bit anxious cutting the chassie. But it went pretty good.

Hopefully i will get my new timbersled 10" ski this week aswell. Then i'm really on the right path with this build.

I think installing the suspension and fabricating the mounts for the rear shaft will be a bit of a challenge to get it right.
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Last edited by Jens; 11-16-2016 at 10:56 AM.
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  #29  
Old 11-16-2016, 05:59 PM
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Should cut the frame out to slide clogs in and out

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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  #30  
Old 11-20-2016, 11:55 AM
Jens Jens is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtypainter View Post
Should cut the frame out to slide clogs in and out

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

sorry, but never heard the term clogs before. if clogs means drivers. i dont think it will be a problem. even if it is. i will just cut away the outer teeth on one side of the drivers, it will fit if i remove two bolts in the lower chassie and spread it apart.

that tactic has worked for me before and i havent had any issues
with the drop and rolls, it should be even easier

waiting for the machinist to fix the tmotion parts, looking forward to start installing stuff soon
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Last edited by Jens; 11-20-2016 at 11:59 AM.
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