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Old 12-24-2012, 12:03 PM
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Default Tail Light Wiring Connector, for flatbed lights.

Flatbed lights. I'm using the 4 prong connector now, and wish to rewire the entire thing clean.

Does anyone know where you can get the connector, that wires in the harness for a pickup bed. F350 7.3L 2002, single rear tires. I can get the entire wiring harness, but all I need is the one connector. Might just be cheaper to buy the harness, and cut the end off.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-OE...9b6993&vxp=mtr
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Old 01-08-2013, 04:12 PM
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I think I know where you're going with this... you'd end up with splices anyhow, so why not just splice in the wires you need. With Back-up, it's only 4 wires. Good connections with heat wrap and you could get another 10 years.

Or, am I missing something?
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Old 01-08-2013, 04:24 PM
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Swing by the local U-haul, they've got that stuff.

Out here ther'es a little trailer outfit, shop's tucked way back in the corner but those guys are good and know their stuff. They've got better quality parts than U-haul does.

Are you rewiring the trailer in addition to the truck, or just the truck? Like G2G said, you'll probably be splicing anyways. The weatherpack/waterproof connectors are fine, but if you cut/splice any wire make sure you heat-shrink the joint. I usually double it up - one layer of the 3:1 stuff to mechanically reinforce the wire, and another longer piece of the 2:1 adhesive-lined shrink tube to seal everything in.
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:04 PM
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When you pull the bed off a truck, there is a connector, for the bed lights. Stop, backup, right and left blink, and ground. 5 Wires total.

My flatbed, came with a standard 4 wire, and a loose wire for backup. But, it uses the trailer harnesses 4 wire, which I want free for trailers. And, I don't want to solder in the backup wire.

I want the mating connector, for the OEM bed connector.

Most people say, just go find a junk pickup bed, and cut the connector out at a junk yard.

Yha, we solder stuff for a living at work, so I know how to do that. I would like to use liquid tape this time throw. Looks promising, if it doesn't fall off over time.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:11 PM
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My bad... I didn't count the ground since we weren't talking about trailers. I assumed on the bolt through connections.

Are you talking about removing the flatbed often?

I'd have a problem spending 106 bucks to cut a plug off.. I'd think a burnt out, wrecked unit at the junk yard would be cheaper if that's what you're bent on getting.

On my flatbed, the lights are hard wired from the original harness (spliced). I run a RV 7 blade plug (hate those things) for the camper; all my trailers/trucks run std 7 pin connectors.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Good to Go View Post
My bad... I didn't count the ground since we weren't talking about trailers. I assumed on the bolt through connections.

Are you talking about removing the flatbed often?

I'd have a problem spending 106 bucks to cut a plug off.. I'd think a burnt out, wrecked unit at the junk yard would be cheaper if that's what you're bent on getting.

On my flatbed, the lights are hard wired from the original harness (spliced). I run a RV 7 blade plug (hate those things) for the camper; all my trailers/trucks run std 7 pin connectors.
Yha, I spliced in a RV 7 pin, have a trailer 7 pin, and a 4 pin. Splicing in the RV was easy, since I just removed the trailer harness and took it into my workbench and soldered it up.

Using the original bed plug was my first idea.

The way it's wired up right now, the blinkers flash about twice the normal speed. I assume that's due to my LED lights not drawing enough current. But, at least it's not generating a fault code on my dashboard, like the newer trucks do. They sense the current, to determine if you have a blown turn signal lightbulb.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:22 PM
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I am royally confused of what you are asking for, but I just wired up a new flatbed on my ford and I re-used the factory light plugs between the chassis and the bed. Inbetween those connectors, I used one of these which gives you a "tap" for trailer lights, which is the standard 4pin light connector. I got the connector or tap from LMC truck.

http://hitches4less.com/gmc-pickup-t...iring-kit.html


Helpful?


Also, for the blinker speed, thats just in the relay. I replaced the stock bed with incondescent lights with my flatbed with all LED lights and mine doesn't blink any faster.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Bump View Post
I am royally confused of what you are asking for, but I just wired up a new flatbed on my ford and I re-used the factory light plugs between the chassis and the bed. Inbetween those connectors, I used one of these which gives you a "tap" for trailer lights, which is the standard 4pin light connector. I got the connector or tap from LMC truck.

http://hitches4less.com/gmc-pickup-t...iring-kit.html


Helpful?


Also, for the blinker speed, thats just in the relay. I replaced the stock bed with incondescent lights with my flatbed with all LED lights and mine doesn't blink any faster.
I looked around that site, and this might just be it.

http://hitches4less.com/2004-ford-pi...k-trailer.html
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:05 PM
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You should be able to find a solid-state flasher unit at napa/autozone.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:23 PM
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You should be able to find a solid-state flasher unit at napa/autozone.
They're not cheap... Whelen load modules are the ones we use. They're like 60 bucks apiece. On line.. My Napa get's them for me.
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