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PROJECT REBEL PRO BCR Project Sled

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  #1  
Old 12-18-2012, 06:53 PM
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Default 2012 Drive Shaft w/Avid Driver Install

Like I stated before.. I wanted something more "bulletproof" than just a clamp over the stock 13 drive shaft..

I was lucky enough to find a brand new 2012 shaft and some anti ratchet drivers..

This install if fairly straight forward, it does take a little time, but the reliability of this shaft is well worth the wrench time.

First get loosen the track at the back idler location (all the way loose).. Then remove the 4 main bolts holding the rear suspension into the sled.. Flip sled on its side (either side works).. swing suspension and track outward from tunnel until your suspension mounting locations are free from tunnel, then remove the suspension from the track.. flip back over make sure track is inside tunnel.. Now either suspend rear of sled or place a lift under the sled..

Now remove the items needed to get to both sides of the drive shaft location. On this turbo sled all that was required on that side was to remove the exhaust portion of the system.. On the other side remove the secondary clutch..

Ok so now you are ready for the fun to begin

Remove the stock bolts for the top/bottom drive gears.. Then grab either top/bottom gear firmly and pull outward (be careful as this is where finger bleeding episode begins )



Now on opposite side of sled.. Remove 6 nuts in total (3 for drive shaft collar and 3 for plate)



Like so



Now you are ready to remove the stock shaft.. This takes a little patience at times.. you have to push/pull the stock shaft through the side of the tunnel on the pto side enough to release the other side from the bearing.. The trick is to have a buddy hold the track in a manner so the stock drivers are catching on numbs or windows..

Ok now its on the ground.. for those of you that haven't seen the 13 shaft here it is

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  #2  
Old 12-18-2012, 07:04 PM
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Now you will need a press or a buddy that has one.. make sure to bring the 13 shaft along for your driver spacing measurements..

Press on the new drivers.. Take very close measurements on your 13 shaft to make sure the new drivers are in the correct place.. Take your time.. Measure 3 times or more.. it will save you a lot of hassle..
Also make sure to index the new drivers (avid has a black mark on the same two points on each driver for indexing)



Some people where concerned about the runout of the 12 shafts with the drive belt system.. So we went ahead and checked it just to make sure it was A ok.. This 12 shaft had .002 runout on both sides.. which is good



You can see there is a different end on the 12 shaft on the PTO side compared to the 13 shaft. This in no way harms anything so we just left it attached..



The other "issue" people/polaris has with running a 12 shaft is the that this shaft was designed for on "oil bath" being inside of a chain case. Some are afraid of a corrosion problem on the shaft itself to the bottom bearing. We went ahead and coated ours just in case..

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Old 12-18-2012, 07:31 PM
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Ok so here it is ready to install



Ok now comes the hardest part of this whole install.. Placing the new shaft back into the sled.. Its made hard because of the extroverts grabbing nubs and windows while trying to get shaft in place.. Take a couple deep breathes and try it a couple times.. It will come together. just takes the right combination of holding your tongue right and saying the correct four letter words



Make sure it is seated into the bottom mag side bearing correctly and you are good to go.. Re-install the 6 nuts on the PTO side (do the plate 3 first, then the bearing carrier 3, make sure the bearing carrier is seated evenly around the bearing)



Here is the 12 shaft inplace on the other side



Now put a little anti seize on the splines.. I actually put a little on both shafts.. A little goes a long ways.. don't over do it as your gears won't seat properly..



Now comes the second hardest part of this install.. Getting the gears/belt back on without the polaris tools.. IT CAN BE DONE.. (but is much easier now that I have the alignment post tool)



Now its on.. replace the stock bolts to hold the gears into place




So when running extroverts (anti-ratches) you MUST run an anti-stab kit and cut a small portion off the front of your rails.. I used the wahls kit..

I didn't get pictures of actually cutting the rails or installing the anti-stab as it was a last minute to make the maiden voyage trip.. Here is a pic of what it looks like once completed





Ok so before you start slapping stuff back together.. put in the suspenion first.. After its in place with rear of sled elevated.. Rotate the track and make sure it moves freely.. I actually got to do this install TWICE.. as I got sent the wrong size drivers the first go around and didn't check it.. They are 2.86 pitch .. Once your've completed this step.. NOW you can go about re-installing secondary, exhaust, retighten track, etc..

Ohh and dont' forget to install a BCR sticker some where

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Old 12-19-2012, 07:46 AM
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Great tutorial on the swap. Those Avids look like the extro's to have.
Just curious why you kept the stock track for a non stock HP app?
Understand the sponsor loyalty thing but I for one like the idea of the optimal if my fingers are going to bleed ( x2 A distant How too? You know you want to.
Since no pics on the anti stab install, like to throw out there to be sure some lock tite goes on the Wahl rod bolts. Drop one of those wheels like I did with no toes and
you will be in there a 3rd, soon. They take a pounding.
This sled project rocks in my book,
Thanks!
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:47 AM
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there's a company that sells a belt drive replacement kit now. a little more durable with options for gearing. I believe it has a tensioner also
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  #6  
Old 12-19-2012, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatndHat View Post
Great tutorial on the swap. Those Avids look like the extro's to have.
Just curious why you kept the stock track for a non stock HP app?
Understand the sponsor loyalty thing but I for one like the idea of the optimal if my fingers are going to bleed ( x2 A distant How too? You know you want to.
Since no pics on the anti stab install, like to throw out there to be sure some lock tite goes on the Wahl rod bolts. Drop one of those wheels like I did with no toes and
you will be in there a 3rd, soon. They take a pounding.
This sled project rocks in my book,
Thanks!

Actually had planned on doing a 3" under it.. After talking with some people with them.. Decided against it... A CE or peak is an option, however wanted to try the new polaris track.. I've done the driver install enough that doing it again wouldn't be an issue

YES LOCTITE the antistab bolts for sure.. huge safety risk if you dont..




Quote:
Originally Posted by Graveler View Post
there's a company that sells a belt drive replacement kit now. a little more durable with options for gearing. I believe it has a tensioner also
I really don't think its needed for these sleds.. but we will see.. the only upside IMO would be the gearing options.. However I believe we will see some aftermarket companies making direct drop in replacements for gears.. and may add a tensioner..
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  #7  
Old 01-04-2013, 07:28 PM
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Have you had any belt issues with the Turbo, If not how many LBS of boost are you running.
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  #8  
Old 01-07-2013, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rroberts383 View Post
Have you had any belt issues with the Turbo, If not how many LBS of boost are you running.
Still on the orig. belt.. Had it from 4-7lbs of boost without a problem.. Matt entz has a ton of miles on his 13 already at 10+lbs of boost and has had no belt issues either..
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