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  #11  
Old 10-23-2012, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Adrenaline Revolution View Post
Oh you can bet I'll report back, good, bad or indifferent!
I think the tMotion would actually work against you in a steep sidehill as I would think it would sway itself more under the sled (To try to lay flat) rather than hold a sharp line and stay put on it's edge,
I asked Rassmusen about that this weekend and his response was less than exstatic about the tMotion.
He said it's more about that ability to stand farther forward on the running board and body positioning than anything else but then HE's used to riding in much deeper snow and he's a better rider!
Personally, I'll go with a flexible track edge to help it balance on it's edge, It already rolls over extremely easy but balancing it on that edge in packed snow conditions is the tricky part.

You don't care for their Cable scratchers?
I love them and with their new crimp design I'll like it even more
The way they crimped the cable to the housing was flawed on their first model and tended to break on it's sharp edged crimp.
I've run them with a digital temp gauge and when I forgot to put the scratchers down once it was getting warm because of the icy/packed conditions.... I put them down and the gauge dropped fast as I rode.
When I ride with my wife (Same sled, same track) and she forgets to drop hers but I drop mine, My skid will be full of snow and hers will be mostly empty...
Yeah, They work.

They work ok.. I have used both style and these do not have the downward pressure that the holz style ones. I agree they work but if you ahve them up on your rail at all it takes quite a while for them to finally build pressure downward to kick anything up. I agree they work but they are average performance as far as snow kick up, I run them only for the backup piece of mind and mine does not overheat to begin with, only to have for just in case scenarios..

As far as why the track wouldn't break going the other way and weaken the center part of the track???
I'm not sure what you're getting at..
The tool fits in one location only and has a drill hole that you run a 3/16" bit into to basically cut the fibrglass rod in only one location then you lift the tool to snap it the rest of the way.
It frays at that location and softens as the two ends hit each other while flexing.
Trinity Tax had a piece that had been "Broken" and ground off the rubber track on one side to show what the break looks like.
I have no fear that the ends will be sharp after seeing that.

How far does it fray before it stops? That is what I am wondering. How many miles do they have on a track that has had this mod?

As far as delaminating???
Seriously???
What, do they use water soluable wood glue in their assembly process???
I call bull♥♥♥♥.
Not sure about the delaminating arguement as I think it is a non-issue, I am wondering more about the rods in the track holding up and the thing turning into a wobble conveyor belt under there and the suspension parts holding up to multiple snow types and abuse. Ya it may work in some deep snow but how does it work on spring now or hardpack and landing on that?
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  #12  
Old 10-23-2012, 10:36 AM
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Ya it may work in some deep snow but how does it work on spring now or hardpack and landing on that?
Spring, Or hard pack is the only reason I'm doing it!
The thing's a bitch to balance on edge in the lessor depths!

The fray that was visible with their chunk they cut out of their test track after some use (I don't know how much) was still able to touch.
That fiberglass rod is encased tight inside the track, I doubt very highly the "Fray" would travel.
Plus... Think about how many times you've punched a rock, stick, post, stump with your track.
I know I have MANY times.
I've taken off tracks for driver changing and found that I had 4 or 5 broken rods in it and these were on the edges and right down the center with no noticable degredation of the track.
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:05 AM
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Ok, so you said moving the rear wheels in makes a big difference? I have been thinking about getting a kit from Ice age performance to do that.

As far as the t-motion thing I agree that it might make it harder to set the track in spring snow. I never though of that though until you mentioned it. My plan was to see how hard it would be to put a t motion suspension in and then wait to see how my Dads sled works. Maybe read some review of how it holds up over the winter. Are there any other suggestions on improving the handling of the sled? Oh and there is no way I am going to break the fiberglass rods in my track. Heard to way too many bad things about it for me to want to do that to my brand-new track.
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:08 AM
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And please don't say any crap about just becoming a better rider. I can ride I am just looking for any advantage I can get to help me keep up with the new sleds.
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:47 AM
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And please don't say any crap about just becoming a better rider. I can ride I am just looking for any advantage I can get to help me keep up with the new sleds.
I'm with you on ^^^ this ^^^ 100% BUT...
Anything you hear on how breaking the track has too many bad things said about it is all rumor and opinion since it hasn't been done by anyone besides the small abount of testing Taz has been able to accomplish.
Remember, eveyone has an opinion about it but no-one has practical knowledge of it...YET!!!

I'll do it and let Y'all know!
The worst that would happen is that I would have to spend $600 on a new track but I highly doubt it!
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Adrenaline Revolution View Post
Anything you hear on how breaking the track has too many bad things said about it is all rumor and opinion since it hasn't been done by anyone besides the small abount of testing Taz has been able to accomplish.
Remember, eveyone has an opinion about it but no-one has practical knowledge of it...YET!!!
That's a great point. I look forward to hearing how it works. I'm not ready to do it but if it works good maybe next year I will. What did the tool cost?
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:46 PM
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Tool is $65

http://betweenthelinesdesigns.com/?page_id=434
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:23 AM
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Stole Trinity Taz's info from DooTalk, I don't think he'll mind...


Posted 06 October 2012 - 02:25 PM
The new Flex Edge track and T-Motion suspension from BRP sure has everyone excited. Just the simple idea that a drive track and suspension could flex and allow for greater handling ease is an exciting prospect. Snowmobilers have wrangled with track width for years, learning that while a wider track gives us more flotation, a narrower track allows for more maneuverability. Also, a more limber, less stiff chassis such as the M-Series from Arctic Cat is easier to maneuver onto its side, but a stiff chassis such as the Summit XP is scorned for being near impossible to carve.
Why all the fuss?

The issue is the nature of a drive track.

Simply stated, a track that is built flat wants to stay that way, period! Try riding a motorcycle with a square edged tire, you’d find out in a hurry that it does not work in a turn or lean. It would resist the effort to lean until it finally was overcome by sheer force, at which point it would become very unpredictable and hard to handle. Sound familiar? Motorcycle tires are designed with a round cross-section so that the contact area with the ground is always under the centerline of the axle…so that forces from the terrain are focused into one exact point. This proven design lends to the fact that motorcycles are much easier to ride and require much less seat time to master than snowmobiles. But, for snowmobile design, it’s just not that simple. Try putting a motorcycle tire on a sled and see how far you go on a powdery day.

Fact is: snowmobiles need tracks to stay afloat. What is needed is a compromise.

BRP, who brought us rider forward design and direct injection two-strokes, has now pioneered the new Flex Edge track design. Rest assured that they did not release this technology until it had seen many tens of thousands of miles of the worst abuse possible. Let’s face the facts, the advantages and durability had to coexist for BRP to stake an entire lineup on its claims.

What BRP obviously knows and we’re all about to find out is this: If you make the outer edge of a track flexible enough so that no significant weight is supported by the outside edge (save that which is needed to maintain flotation), the apex of balance will tend to shift toward the center of the track, thus creating a narrower ground pressure profile, aka, a narrower track. This dramatically reduces the leverage that ground forces have on the centerline balance of the snowmobile and acts much more like a round edged tire. What the rider feels is a more predictable, more balanced straight-line handling characteristic with greater ease of side-hilling maneuvers. Those few lucky riders that have had the chance to experience the technology first hand exuberantly claim that it transforms a snowmobile into the most agile, most forgiving ride they’ve ever experienced. It’s no wonder that celebrity riders everywhere are jumping ship from other lifelong brands for a simple reason, this technology works!

You could drop $12,000 + on a new Summit XM to experience the technology for yourself, or spend over $1200 on the T-Motion suspension-upgrade and a new Flex Edge track, both to simply enjoy the benefits that BRP is touting. Sounds too expensive? Good news for you, there is a simpler, cheaper way…

After seeing and experiencing the benefits of BRP’s awesome new approach, it led us to think, “What if we could make it possible for people to modify their existing drive tracks in such a way so that riders of all brands could enjoy the benefits of BRPs new technology without them having to spend a bunch of money?” Well, we found a way.

On the Flex Edge Track design, the fiberglass rods were shortened to 12 inches to allow the outer 2 inches of track to freely flex. While it wasn’t possible to build a tool that removed the 2 inches of fiberglass rod without harming structural integrity, our Flexible Edge Track Tool allows the user to accurately and precisely break the fiberglass reinforcing rods on the outer edge of the track to virtually duplicate what BRP has accomplished. The end product of the Track Tool is the same…a freely-flexing outer edge, virtually the same as the Flex Edge track.

Of course, when we say “break the fiberglass reinforcing rods”, your heart undoubtedly skips a beat; “You want me to do what with my $1000 track?!” Rest easy, we have created a method that is both safe and durable, and, some would argue, is actually a better end product than the Flex Edge track design. While the Flex Edge design has a fiberglass rod end hidden behind a shield of rubber, our approach keeps the rod extending all the way out to the outer edge. Potentially, there is less chance of track puncture from our approach because the rod retains some of its compressive structure to resist narrowing. When the fiberglass rods are broken, the fibers in the broken section are reduced to a powdery mix which actually serves to lubricate the broken joint. No sharp edges are left which could puncture the reinforcing layer of the track and cause failure. Want proof…closely examine any old worn-out track and you will surely notice a number of broken or fractured fiberglass rods with no visible damage to the track. Fact is, fiberglass is the chosen material for reinforcing rods BECAUSE it has the properties described above.

So, what you are provided in the end with the Flexible Edge Track Tool is a solid modification to your drive track without having to spend a bunch of your hard earned money outside of your fuel tank.

On a side note, we also considered drilling out the whole end of the fiberglass rod at first, but decided against it. Without the rod taking up the void between the plies of the track, the resulting loop of slack would give the outer edges of the track a much greater circumfrence than the rest...a real mess to be sure, and not really something we wanted to deal with.

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  #19  
Old 10-29-2012, 10:21 PM
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I looked hard at the xm, the flexing rear is a small piece of the puzzle, the flex edge track and 2 wheels are doing most of the work.
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Old 10-30-2012, 03:44 AM
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I looked hard at the xm, the flexing rear is a small piece of the puzzle, the flex edge track and 2 wheels are doing most of the work.
Already have the two wheel set-up and just finished with the track, it rolls over VERY smoothly now without jerking the bars.
BIG difference.
Now to seal all the little holes to keep the water out and wait impatiently for snow to test it!
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