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Old 10-21-2012, 04:37 PM
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Default T-motion suspension for 06 rev?

Yesterday I installed a t-motion suspension upgrade in my dads sled(08 summit) and was wondering how hard it would be to mod the kit to fit my sled (06 summit). Has anyone looked at doing this or know why it wouldn't work?
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Old 10-21-2012, 04:40 PM
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my take is that the 06 was a dream to ride and i don't think you would benefit much from the t motion. how much is the kit?
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:46 AM
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The kit is $350ish. I think it would make a big difference. I haven't rode my Dad's sled yet but just in the garage it was way easer to roll on its side. I think you will see it on all the new mountain sleds in a few years.
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Old 10-22-2012, 06:56 PM
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Brp says it fits all sc5 m suspensions, so I don't recall what the 06 rev's had but it may just be mounting points? Anything is possible with lots of tools and beer. But you may not benefit from the t motion exclusively the new xm has inner boogie wheels and another key part is that flex edge track a lot softer than regular tracks so it may bee not worth trouble unless you get the track as well.
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:11 AM
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I wouldn't mess with t-motion for the 06'. Just lose the sway bar and stiffen the front shocks a bit. You will be able to throw it around with ease. A little counter steering helps too.
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:49 AM
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I know we are not buying into the whole floppy track and suspension till we see how it holds up to a season of abuse.

Between the line designs has a tool for breaking off the outer portion of a standard track to make it wishy washy, also waiting to see how a track holds up to a season riding before we do anything. Have a 2011 that could be upgraded if it does work tho.
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:51 AM
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I would either break the rods in your track with this or get a flexEdge track from Doo before I'd put the tMotion on it.
The Rev (Prior to XP) rolled over like a dog wanting his nutz scratched already!

Put the rear wheels inside the rails too, THAT alone makes a big difference.
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob1334 View Post
I know we are not buying into the whole floppy track and suspension till we see how it holds up to a season of abuse.

Between the line designs has a tool for breaking off the outer portion of a standard track to make it wishy washy, also waiting to see how a track holds up to a season riding before we do anything. Have a 2011 that could be upgraded if it does work tho.
I'm doing my track on my '11 this weekend, I bought the tool at the show.

I made a deal with the dealer for a FlexEdge track for $600 just in case it fails but seriously, I can't imagine it failing.
I researched the hell out of it and then talked to Trinity Taz at the show about it, talked to the rep from Challenger tracks... Of course he had nothing good to say about it but seriously, I knew he wouldn't
HE said it would delaminate the track... I call bull♥♥♥♥, If porting the hell out of a track and riding with paddles ripped off for years won't delaminate it then why would this???
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:14 AM
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But you are porting BETWEEN the fiber rods on the track not in the middle of them. And yes, that is the tool I was referencing which should in theory save you from having to buy a $600 track on top of it, but that tool is designed to break the rod and for it to "break appart" on the outer edge and in a way break up to make it more pliable, why would it not just lose strength in the center of the track also and break more going the other way from the break? BTLD has had some great products "quick clickers", some average products like the cable style scratchers, and flops like the blower urbo thing they tried pushing, guess I would rather wait a season to see how it works and where this product falls in line.


Other big thing is the t motion itself, I really want to see how the heim joint in the middle of the suspension holds up to abuse before wasting $350 on a design that may or may not work. Just don't want to dump potentially $1k into a design that isn't proven..

Good luck and let us know how it works, reports first couple rides and then end of the year please!
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob1334 View Post
But you are porting BETWEEN the fiber rods on the track not in the middle of them. And yes, that is the tool I was referencing which should in theory save you from having to buy a $600 track on top of it, but that tool is designed to break the rod and for it to "break appart" on the outer edge and in a way break up to make it more pliable, why would it not just lose strength in the center of the track also and break more going the other way from the break? BTLD has had some great products "quick clickers", some average products like the cable style scratchers, and flops like the blower urbo thing they tried pushing, guess I would rather wait a season to see how it works and where this product falls in line.


Other big thing is the t motion itself, I really want to see how the heim joint in the middle of the suspension holds up to abuse before wasting $350 on a design that may or may not work. Just don't want to dump potentially $1k into a design that isn't proven..

Good luck and let us know how it works, reports first couple rides and then end of the year please!
Oh you can bet I'll report back, good, bad or indifferent!
I think the tMotion would actually work against you in a steep sidehill as I would think it would sway itself more under the sled (To try to lay flat) rather than hold a sharp line and stay put on it's edge,
I asked Rassmusen about that this weekend and his response was less than exstatic about the tMotion.
He said it's more about that ability to stand farther forward on the running board and body positioning than anything else but then HE's used to riding in much deeper snow and he's a better rider!
Personally, I'll go with a flexible track edge to help it balance on it's edge, It already rolls over extremely easy but balancing it on that edge in packed snow conditions is the tricky part.

You don't care for their Cable scratchers?
I love them and with their new crimp design I'll like it even more
The way they crimped the cable to the housing was flawed on their first model and tended to break on it's sharp edged crimp.
I've run them with a digital temp gauge and when I forgot to put the scratchers down once it was getting warm because of the icy/packed conditions.... I put them down and the gauge dropped fast as I rode.
When I ride with my wife (Same sled, same track) and she forgets to drop hers but I drop mine, My skid will be full of snow and hers will be mostly empty...
Yeah, They work.

As far as why the track wouldn't break going the other way and weaken the center part of the track???
I'm not sure what you're getting at..
The tool fits in one location only and has a drill hole that you run a 3/16" bit into to basically cut the fibrglass rod in only one location then you lift the tool to snap it the rest of the way.
It frays at that location and softens as the two ends hit each other while flexing.
Trinity Taz had a piece that had been "Broken" and ground off the rubber track on one side to show what the break looks like.
I have no fear that the ends will be sharp after seeing that.

As far as delaminating???
Seriously???
What, do they use water soluable wood glue in their assembly process???
I call bull♥♥♥♥.
Porting the track exposes the fabric that runs throughout the track and if the water doesnt soak into that fabric and delaminate then how is breaking the rods and a small hole (I'll inject shoe goo into mine BTW) going to be any different?
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Last edited by Adrenaline Revolution; 10-23-2012 at 11:29 AM.
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