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Old 07-16-2012, 12:06 PM
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Default Ranger upgrades

Those with the crew know how bad the dust "boils" up from behind the rear seat. There is a huge gap between the seat bottom and the back. Why Polaris never blocked this off is beyond me..... oh wait..... yea so you have to spend even more $$ to buy THEIR KIT!! An obvious problem Poo is aware of but won't fix right from the factory.

Anyhow... this is a $20 fix with some 1/16", 1'x2' ABS plastic and a couple screws. The plastic I got off flea-bay. This is easy stuff to work with, tin snips or even a razor knife to cut it. Cut the sheet in half lengthwise and I think 20 1/8" wide. I put a half inch bend at the bottom to stiffen up the plastic and make the seal a bit tighter to the frame. I used my Harbor Freight "modified" bender and a heat gun to soften the plastic. Trim around the seatbelt tabs, and the roll cage and some self tapping screws right to the seat back and your done.
This will also help with water and mud flipping up in the seat when your in wet conditions.



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Old 07-16-2012, 12:08 PM
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More pics.....
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:25 PM
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Also removed the Pyle o chit radio that I put in last yr. The speakers work fine but the removable faceplate was losing connection and then the small amp chit the bed too. Now I know why they named their stuff "Pyle"....

Even tho the radio was marine it still was not waterproof, and the roof on my Ranger is sloped so water drains right on the dash in some conditions. So... move the radio up to the roof. This time with a better brand. Clarion M502 marine reciever. Love this thing, no CD slot to attract dirt, no removeable faceplate to lose connection. Does bluetooth, usb, ipod, am/fm, and pandora. Wiring is pretty standard and I ran the wires down the side of the rollcage in some plastic wire loom and a few zipties. Didn't feel like drilling the cage and fishing wires. Both the new radio enclosure and the cubby hole fill in in the dash were from Crutchfield.com

Also tinted the windshield as someone else noted to keep down the glare and "flashing" effect out in front of you. $10 bucks at wally world and about 1/2 hr. Looks kinda cool too.



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Old 07-30-2012, 05:09 PM
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One other thing that drove me fricken nuts is the seat belt brackets squawking up one hell of a storm when driving, or sometimes just idling. There is a gap between the bracket and the cage created by the shoulder bolts Poo uses.
I cut some 1.5" circles in a pc of belting with a hole saw and then punched open the center hole a bit bigger to fit the shoulder bolt. Reinstall and it pinches the belt bracket and the cage together just enough to eliminate the noise but still allow the swivel of the belt to work. Cheap and simple.
If you don't have access to hole punch or belting PM me and I can make you up some for a couple bucks and shipping.
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Old 08-01-2012, 10:02 AM
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Looks good BF! All improvements over the factory. Polaris just released the new 2013 lineup, that 900 is awfully tempting.
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Old 08-02-2012, 10:31 PM
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Some more upgrades....

The rear seat on the crew and from what I hear the front seat on the regular Rangers gets hotter than HE!!. The heat shields on the exhaust pipe from Polaris are a dam joke. They do nothing to direct the heat away from the seat. I have heard of seat pans literally melting and the pins that hold the seat down melting also.

Want a cheap fix that Poo won't tell ya???
Go to Wally-World or wherever and get an accordian style windshield sun shade. Get the bubble wrap foil faced on both sides one. Trim to fit and hold it in place with some duct tape or foil faced heat tape, (same type you use on your sleds for heat shield).

So far in these pics we have 400 miles and NO melting or complaints from my daughters of excess heat. Under 5 bucks and problem solved!!!!! Next time I need to access the motor from under this shield I will get some pics of the cheesy heat sheilds Poo uses and the crappy fiberglass crap they use on the underside of the seat......

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Old 09-11-2012, 10:41 AM
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Few more little mods.
The seatbelts sit a bit too high and tend to rub on your neck after long rides making a nice little rash and sore on your neck. So..... make some extensions to lower them a tad. 1.25"x1/8" flat bar cut at 2.5" each, drill a couple holes and use some 1/2" bolts and nuts and there ya go. No more belt digging into your neck.

Next was the cubby holes under the dash. So far nothing has fell out while riding but I did lose a set of gloves when I was trailering. So I remembered I had an old cargo net from the trunk of our old Grand Prix car sitting around. Stretched it out and it fit perfect across the dash. Few self tapping screws and some large fender washers to secure it and now I know things won't come out. I only put the screws on the 4 corners and along the bottom so you can simply pull down the net to access the cubby holes from the top.



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Old 09-11-2012, 11:18 AM
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Nice work froggy... making me get some ideas for our new units we are getting for work.
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Old 08-04-2015, 12:13 PM
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Time for more upgrades....... never ends does it

Was starting to get more and more no start issues after longer rides. It acted like it was vapor locking when on slow climbs or when stopped for 5 minutes or so. I "think" the fuel line running right over the top of the exhaust is part of the problem.... a freakin genius engineering move right So insulate it with some heat tape and wire loom. Also added a pc of old diamond plate to shield the fuel tank from the exhaust.... hoping to keep the fuel in the tank a bit cooler this way.
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Old 08-04-2015, 01:06 PM
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To further add to the heat problem under the back seat I installed an 8" push/pull fan in the center panel. The fan was just a $20 cheapie off flea-bay to see if it helped before buying a better automotive fan.

1st step was cutting the panel and making a vent. The metal screen I used is actually off my Ram's old air filter. I am a packrat from hell my wife tells me but I'll be damned if this didn't fit just right with only trimming about 1/4" off the bottom. Plastic for the vent frame is 1/16" abs also from flea-bay. I stuck the screen to the frame with some 3M double sided tape then riveted it to the panel.

Next was the fan. I was careful to leave enough room on the panel to bolt the fan thru the vent frame and original panel. Fits like factory. Then trim the factory insulation shield and add a shitload of heat tape to the panel and under the seat.

Wire it up and done. Push the switch up and the fan blows air across the motor and push it down it pulls air from the motor compartment. The pull feature might be kinda nice for passengers on those colder days as it really gets hot under the seat.
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Last edited by bullfrog; 08-04-2015 at 02:25 PM.
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