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#1
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I need the proper procedure for aligning the Secondary on my M8
My understanding is this: Place alignment bar (AC # 644-427) against the outside of the secondary (Fixed Sheve) allow bar to extend into primary clutch. Measure distance from alignment bar to the inside the the primary (Fixed Sheve). Measurment should be .060". Add or remove (Add in my case becuse I have none) shims from between Diamond Drive and secondary to bring within spec Correct ?
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10 M8 162" Sno Pro 09 M8 153" Sno-Pro, SLP 06 M7 141" http://avalanche.state.co.us/pub_bc.php?zone_id=-1 http://www.whiteriverforestalliance.com/ "Never underestimate man's determination to be free" - A. Watkins Follow my sledding Insanity http://www.youtube.com/user/Rprecision?feature=mhum
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#2
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I dont have the manual for the 09 in front of me but that sounds right as long as your part #'s and tolerances are correct for your year
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Member of WSSA, Saws 2007 M8 162" 437lbs Member #475 |
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#3
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Ok cool thanks
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10 M8 162" Sno Pro 09 M8 153" Sno-Pro, SLP 06 M7 141" http://avalanche.state.co.us/pub_bc.php?zone_id=-1 http://www.whiteriverforestalliance.com/ "Never underestimate man's determination to be free" - A. Watkins Follow my sledding Insanity http://www.youtube.com/user/Rprecision?feature=mhum
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#4
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I still haven't wrenched on an m series so I don't know, but I have a question that may help you.
On most sleds the driven clutch moves on the jackshaft, and it relies on that change in juxtaposition to keep alignment between clutches while they are changing ratios. Doesn't the M work like this? The thing I am asking myself it that if you insert shims you may loose some of that play, and create a misalignment at one point while the primary is spooling in, and the secondary is spooling out. |
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#5
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It doesn't work like that on the m-series sleds. The shaft that the secondary sits on has splines and you will ruin it if you let it float.
I tried to use the alignment bar on mine and it didn't seem to be doing the trick for me. The problem I see with this non-floating system is that the bar sets the clutches up for only one setting. On mine I run only one shim behind the secondary even though with the bar it said to run three. I found that the clutches would get hot with the three shims in. Seem to remember that if you took a measurement from the bulkhead to the back of the sheave it should be 3 1/4 inches to have good alignment. (could be wrong on this???)
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And the monkey pushes the button Last edited by tundramonkey; 12-16-2009 at 08:29 PM. |
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#6
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I got about 500 ish hard miles out of my last belt so I cant complain too much.
I have since changed the clutching added a pipe, etc and want to get the most out of them. I found it odd there were no shims behind the secondary and am curious if the dealer ever aligned them. Manual says .060, some say no shims as close to the secondary as possible? I have nothing, dont know what to do, just want it right
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10 M8 162" Sno Pro 09 M8 153" Sno-Pro, SLP 06 M7 141" http://avalanche.state.co.us/pub_bc.php?zone_id=-1 http://www.whiteriverforestalliance.com/ "Never underestimate man's determination to be free" - A. Watkins Follow my sledding Insanity http://www.youtube.com/user/Rprecision?feature=mhum
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#7
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I have heard of a lot of 08's that didn't need shims. I use the alignment bar and have had no problem with belt wear.
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Member of WSSA, Saws 2007 M8 162" 437lbs Member #475 |
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#8
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I checked my '10 M8 alignment and it just clears the fixed sheave on the primary an its has no shims behind the secondary either.
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