How to chop the 1M tunnel to bits

[76FoMoCo]

O.K. I have had a bunch of questions on how to chop your tunnel down and what parts to get. So I put it all together in a step by step format along with all the parts needed from each manufacturer with part number and approximate prices. This is not an easy project so if your low on mechanical ability call your buddies with the skills and have them come over and help. This is for a 162” you can order the shorter versions of the parts if needed. I do sell the tunnel cap only and don’t make money off them so this is for the love of the cat and I only take pay pal or a POSTAL M.O.

1. Remove rear bumper, tail flap, rear tail light and seat but leave rear cooler attached and hanging by the hoses.
2. find location for the gussets I used the 4th rivet from the tunnel joint.
3, install the 16” splice for the tunnel cap using the 5 holes holding the rear exchanger in place and tape the rear cap in place and prop the gusset in place, place the rear bumper in line with the rear cap and the gussets.


4, chalk a line below the rear bumper with a pencil and cover with blue true tape above the cut line

5 at the location the bumper is to meet the gusset 45* change drill a 3/8” hole to keep the tunnel from cracking and help make the direction change.
6 drill out the lower cooler line rivets holding the tunnel coolers and about 5 rivets into the rear suspension bracket.(run new tail light wire before you rivet it) Rivet the rear inner supports into place

7 cut rails, cooler support and tunnel to match the rear bumper and gussets, make sure the tunnel is flush with the bottom of the rear bumper. (I used a ¼ cut off air grinder)

8 drill holes for the rear bumper and rear cooler cover mount tail light and rear flap and bumper.

Cat parts

5606-594 Gusset, Tunnel Roll – Right 9.00
5606-595 Gusset, Tunnel Roll – Left 9.00
5606-490 Roll, Tunnel – Right 32.00
5606-491 Roll, Tunnel – Left 32.00
Ski doo parts

518325375 Rear Bumper, 163" 40.00
Along with 6 metric screws from the hardware store 1.00 or order them from doo for 12.00

Tail light
http://www.bluhmenterprises.com/prod...category_id=87 20.00-40.00
Home depot support
2”x36”x1/8” total of 2 needed 8.00
Rear tunnel cap with 17” flat splice
35.00
And you will need a bunch of rivets too.

[HOBB-Z]

Sweet write up, thanks for taking the time to do it..............





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[Arctic Thunder]

What did you do to protect your coolant hoses?

I know on my 900 I had to fabricate some covers to keep the darn track from ripping the hoses off. Mine is an 03.5. I ordered the covers that came on the 05's I think. But I also had to build a bit more extension to keep the hoses on.

Also I have seen guys take the heat exchanger and do one of two things. One cut it off at the bend and have a shop seal weld it back up. Or put it in a press and straighten it out. This eliminates the big kicker at the end.

Yours looks good.

Thunder

[76FoMoCo]

Originally Posted by Arctic Thunder

What did you do to protect your coolant hoses?

I know on my 900 I had to fabricate some covers to keep the darn track from ripping the hoses off. Mine is an 03.5. I ordered the covers that came on the 05's I think. But I also had to build a bit more extension to keep the hoses on.

Also I have seen guys take the heat exchanger and do one of two things. One cut it off at the bend and have a shop seal weld it back up. Or put it in a press and straighten it out. This eliminates the big kicker at the end.

Yours looks good.

Thunder

you can order the factory m hose covers or put drop brackets on. this will protect or give the clearance the hoses need during full compression of the rear skid.
as for the heat xchanger i'm running a BB and need all the cooing I can get so I can have the local shop make the cover for cheaper than I can have the rear cooler altered.

[Arctic Thunder]

Yea, you don't want to cut corners on the cooling.

I am running the sled junky drop brackets on mine. Still had trouble with the hoses. Must be my fat a$$.

I think track tension has something to do with it also. If it is running loose the track has a tendency to flop around and clip the clamps.

Thunder

[76FoMoCo]

so far 250 miles and still holding up good.........

[dave186]

I had a little trouble with mine, I originally used silicone hose with some adel clamps holding it for the cooler and the track tore it up on my test ride. I think the clamps were holding it away from the side of the tunnel just enough for the track to grab it. I put on regular rubber hose without the clamps and havent had any trouble since.

[76FoMoCo]

i use the clamps like you would use on a sprinkler system just crimp them and they work great.
post up some pics?

[dave186]

I just used regular hose clamps for that. I saw the clamps you used I forget what they are called. Adel clamps are used to hold the hose in place its a metal band that's padded and then bolts on. Real common on heavy trucks.

[twostroke]

What about when you riveted the gussets on? I'm worried about drilling into the cooling line....

Did you ever put the line protectors back on?

Think my HRP drop brackets will be enough to not worry about clearance issues?