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  #11  
Old 09-04-2011, 11:55 PM
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Really started tearing into it this weekend.


Mouse nest... no mouse.




Wire's coming out. Pull new wire that doesn't have scotch-locks on it, do it right and you don't have to mess with problematic wiring again.


Lights work best when they're connected to a source of power...


F*ck scotch-locks.


Walls off, wiring all out.


Pulled new wire, put it all in wire loom, did it the right way. Strung wire for furnace/thermostat. Will be pulling new wire for electric brakes as well.
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Last edited by Mule; 10-29-2012 at 11:50 PM. Reason: Moving photo hosts
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  #12  
Old 09-05-2011, 12:04 AM
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120V wiring.

This thing's called a "motor base".


Stuck it to the v-nose.


Makes it easy to bring in 120. Just plug in an extension cord.


Because of the depth, had to mount it in a full-depth box. Pulled romex along the bottom of the floor.


Right now we just fed the romex through the shallow boxes on the wall. We'll wire these up once we get wall panels back up.
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  #13  
Old 09-05-2011, 12:12 AM
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Insulation.

Used foil-backed iso board. About $14/sheet at Home Depot, and pretty lightweight.
Cut-to-fit, and stuff it in there. The gaps will be filled with expanding foam tomorrow when the wall panels go back on.


The wiring harness from the trailer connector and the harness we put together will join up in an 8x8x4" junction box towards the front of the trailer. If I need to rewire something, or when I add the battery in, this will make everything fairly easy to get to.


Cut-outs for the taillight/marker light wiring in the insulation. Probably shoot some spray foam into this gap.


Plywood came off the front/rear loading doors and they got insulated too. The side man-door is a wood-framed door and already had polystyrene sheet in the voids.


Both doors done, walls done as much as we can with what we have now. You can see the blue junction boxes with romex hanging out of them in the walls for the 120V wiring (2 on the right side, 1 on the left)


Back at it tomorrow.
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Last edited by Mule; 10-29-2012 at 11:52 PM. Reason: Moving photo host
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  #14  
Old 09-05-2011, 08:04 AM
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looks really good mule
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  #15  
Old 09-05-2011, 05:00 PM
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Walls going up. Measure and punch holes for 120V outlets, then pull the wire through and bolt the plywood to the frame.

Great stuff foam-can in the ribs and gaps in the iso board.


Expands nicely, fills in voids, stops drafts, and locks in the iso board.


Waiting to put the front board on till I get some more parts for the propane hose box.


Back at it again next weekend.
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  #16  
Old 09-05-2011, 06:06 PM
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hey Mule if you dont mind me asking about how much do you have in to the insulation and parts so far? thinking about doing the same and just curious
thanks
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  #17  
Old 09-05-2011, 07:22 PM
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What are you gonna do for the ceiling?
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  #18  
Old 09-05-2011, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2001rmk700 View Post
hey Mule if you dont mind me asking about how much do you have in to the insulation and parts so far? thinking about doing the same and just curious
thanks
Undercoat's about $5/can at auto parts stores. Been through about 4 of those, will need 4-6 more if I do the rest of the frame (which i'd like to).

Probably $100 for wiring so far. A few colors of 20AWG for the lights, a spool of 12AWG for the furnace power, butt splices, junction boxes, romex (had some of that laying around), the motor base was about $14, some wire loom, etc.

Insulation's about $14 per sheet and i'll use about 10 sheets. So, $150-ish. Great-Stuff is ~$5/can, used 5 cans, probably need 3-4 more.

Propane stuff... the refrigeration line (3/8" soft copper tubing) is sold in 20ft and 50ft coils. The 50ft roll is about $60. Plus the cost of fittings, a regulator, hose, connectors... another $50. The 40lb propane tank runs about $100.

Furnace, as mentioned earlier, I got for $120. I had budgeted $400 for it, on ebay most go for $600 but occasionally you can find a good deal.

Still need to buy a battery and box, the boxes are pretty cheap at farm/ranch supply shops. A good-size deep cycle marine battery is $80 at sams club.

Generator's going to be the next big-ticket item, looking at the Generac 2kw units that are about $600 new. I'll give one of these a shot since they're half the price of the Hondas. If it lasts two years and I have to replace it, I'll replace it with a honda. Till then, I'll run the cheap one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dogmeat View Post
What are you gonna do for the ceiling?
Same thing we did on the walls. Pull the panels down, cut the iso board to fit, foam in the gaps, then stick 'em back up there.
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  #19  
Old 09-05-2011, 09:49 PM
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Did you install an inverter on the 120V inlet to run the lights and whatnot from shore power? Then just leave the outlets hooked up to the 120V from the generator?
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  #20  
Old 09-05-2011, 10:12 PM
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Nah, the 120v is its own circuit. Just laid the wiring so I can plug the extension cord from the motor base into whatever source of 120v electricity is handy, be it a genset or utility power, and easily bring it inside the trailer without leaving a door cracked for an extension cord.

I have a small inverter in the truck if I really need something powered.
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