Pro-X Rear Suspension Relocation Mod

[Bump]

Heres a mod that will lower the front torque arm and do the following:

-Remove the suspension sag (like 4" from the factory) in the rear suspension
-Add traction by increasing the contact area of the track with the ground
-stiffen up the supension and how it reacts to heavy "banging"
-minimize suspension bottoming out on hard landings

Some negatives that are associated with this mod:
-extremely minor top speed loss (most guys dont notice it, but it has been mentioned)
-less ski pressure. Skis will want to come off the ground easier in a hole shot (not bad IMO )

I have done this to my sled and love it. It took the 4" or so of sag out of the rear suspension so now when I get on the sled, it only compresses about 1" but dosent make the sled ride worse like if you were to use heavier springs. Alot better traction on hole shot. And handles the "ditch banging" like a champ!

Instructions:
-suspend the rear of the sled
-loosen the track with the rear wheels (back each wheel off equally. this will
help keep your track "allignment" right when you put it back together)
-loosen your skid springs completely (note how many turns you removed so you can get them back where they were)
-remove the 2 front bolts holding the front of the skid to the tunnel
-mark for drilling a new mounting hole as noted:
-the new hole will be 7/8" center to center lower than the existing
mounting hole
-you must maintain the same center to center distance from the rear
mounting bolts to the front mounting bolts. (something like 23 3/8" but
I dont remember for sure) This means that your new hole will be slightly
back from the existing hole. Think about is as an arc with the rear
mounting bolts at the centerline of the arc. you are "swinging" the front
of the skid down 7/8" in a circular motion as the rear of the skid it a
fixed axis.
-drill an 1/8" or so hole there for a pilot hole
-drill a 7/16" hole in the pilot hole
-repeat the steps for the opposite side
-bolt the skid back in place
-set the springs back where they were and then loosen them up about 8
turns (you will need to adjust them according to your liking, but this will be
a good starting point)
-tighten up the track using the rear wheels (be sure to tighten them equally
to maintain proper "allignment") You will not have to tighten them nearly as
much as you loosened then during disassembly as this mod will take up some
track. (you should have approximately 1" of track sag in the middle of the
skid with 10lbs hanging from the track. Some guys (myself included) run
them alot looser, but I believe thats the numbers Polaris recommends.
-you will want to loosen up the ski springs a little, but you can take care of
this during tuning.

I hope I hit all the steps. I will post some pics of mine when I get a chance.
Again, this mod is not for every riding style. It would not be recommended for easy to moderate trail riding, but thats not what the Pro-X is for anyway.

[Bump]

Heres a diagram of locating the new mounting hole using the radius of the rear mounting bolt.

[Bump]

Heres a pic of the bolt holes.

Also note that it can be done with out completely removeing the skid and drilling from the outside, but it is difficult as you will be drilling at an angle with a normal drill due to the sides of the belly pan and runnning boards. Most guys completely remove the skid and drill from inside the tunnel out. I was lazy and drilled from outside in.

[boardbysled]

I would think this would increase trenching in deep powder and when climbing because you would have a more extreme angle on the front of the track.

[Bump]

Good call. This had been discussed before and I believe the consensus is no. Keep in mind, you are really only moving it 7/8" and it is more changing the geometry of the skid from a suspension stand point than actually changing the attack angle of the track.

This mod is more geared toward the abusive "ditch banging" style of riding than powder riding, which is what 90% of Pro-X owners own them for. The other 10% have switched skids and made long track sleds for the powder. With that said, I am a "ditch bangin flatlander" but last year we got more snow than I ever remember riding in and I had NO problems floating on top of the snow. Actually cant even remember a time I got stuck last year.

[Rob1334]

I remember you getting stuck on the way to Mercer last year in the ditch.

[Bump]

No No No Rob, I ride in the back of the pack and help people get unstuck. It seems like I get stuck alot because Im always last to arrive because I always helping people get unstuck! That was my buddy on my indy that got stuck.


I never get stuck.

[Pro X Rebel]

Hell of a mod, thanks for the post with pics!

I'll be getting this done next week! Hopefully it adds alot of traction!

[X2Freeride]

Originally Posted by boardbysled

I would think this would increase trenching in deep powder and when climbing because you would have a more extreme angle on the front of the track.

Why would moving the skid down and having more track on the snow trench more? The way it is stock trenches WAY more than the modded way does.


This takes pressure off the ski's. It makes the skid more efficient because pressure on the rear of the skid is reduced getting rid of that god awful sag the sled has stock. The sled over all just plain old works better.

[theultrarider]

This is a must do mod for any aggressive rider. It becomes even more important for any of you guys that stretch them to 136's or longer. It does more than just take pressure off the skis. Since the prox skid is a coupled unit, it changes the geometry of the transfer and lock up points. The Prox skid extened to a 136 is next to unridable without doing this mod. With it, the thing rides and handles great. Good post. I am sure you got this from Tom over on hcs huh?