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BACKCOUNTRY RIDES - BUILD THREADS We all like to see builds from the crate up. Bring us along for the creation.

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Old 01-18-2015, 12:40 AM
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02zx800 02zx800 is offline
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Default Project pro rebuild

So here is a story...
In mid November I took a 2011 pro rmk 800 163
On trade for my 04 rev 800 turbo.
I was told it had allot of miles on the top end and it made me hesitate, but I decided to got out on a limb since the rest of the sled was pretty clean.
Met with the guy and talked shop for a bit then fired them up and shook hands and loaded up and went our separate ways.

Got back to my shop and went to pull the sled in and it started backfiring ....bad.
I got real nervous....

Pulled the head and found a scattered piston and a 1" chunk out of the mag side
Cylinder exhaust port....dug a big deeper and found a nice hole
In the case an a chunk of metal wedged in the rod bearing.
Dug a but deeper and found the case had 4 cracks and a dime sized hole.

That got expensive quick!
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Old 01-18-2015, 12:48 AM
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02zx800 02zx800 is offline
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The sled
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Old 01-18-2015, 12:58 AM
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Case
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Old 01-18-2015, 01:04 AM
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Lower case
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Old 01-18-2015, 01:08 AM
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Crank
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Old 01-18-2015, 01:17 AM
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I made the decision to just rebuild the sled from the ground up.
Not going over board with the motor but going to build it to be strong enough for boost but reliable. Everything on this build was done by me in my shop except for 3 key things.
Started by welding the case and sanding and polishing it down....
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:45 AM
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Nice job. Looks great.
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Old 01-18-2015, 09:35 AM
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NICE WORK!
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Old 01-18-2015, 12:24 PM
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Looks Awesome, just a thought I'd get some foot well tunnel braces and then you will have fixed 2 (engine and tunnel) of the weakest links in the Pro IMO....what does a guy need to powder coat parts??? and how did you bake the rails cause i don't think they would fit in the oven....just curious
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04 REV Summit 827RKT w/misc other parts
07 M1000 Ported/Piped/Programmer. Wrecked.... Wasting my time resurrecting because there NO good snow
11 M8 mostly stock
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Old 01-18-2015, 04:10 PM
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Thanks guys I have a ton of time into this thing!

For powder coating you will need:
A Sandblasting cabinet or look for a local company like blast tech,
You need to completely strip down the part to bare metal for the best results
I used a 70 grit alum oxide.

I purchased a cheap powder coating kit from harbor frieght tools,
Works way better than I thought it would.

I found a nice digital electric oven on craigslist for $30 to put in the shop and only use for powder coating and ceramic coatings . Never use a gas oven as the powder coating releases flammable fumes during the cureing process

I went to CArdinal industrial finishs for my powder,
Safety orange $9.90/lb and Matt black $4.70/lb with a 5lb min order.....
The powder goes a long way, put it this way I used a total of 3lbs of orange and 1lb of black on the whole sled....

I converted a large metal cabinet into a spray booth complete with two exhaust fans,filter,powder catch tray (reclaime clean powder)
I hang my parts with copper wire, coat them and be super auto ons of bumping or touching or even breathing on the parts as the finish is still a powder and will come off very easily.

After coating a part I stick it in the oven @ 400* and watch it closely
Until the surface glass's over , once that happens I set the timer for 15min.

When it's done grab the wire with gloves and a pair of needle nose and remove it from the over being very careful again to not touch the finish until the part has completly cooled down hanging on a metal rack.

I did every part on the sled my sled except I was not able to do the skid rails and running board rails as they were too long for my sandblaster and oven.
I took them to a local guy with my color of powder and he charged me $100
To strip,coat and bake them and had them back to me with in 48hrs.

Biggest factor is gone be prep work and temp and bake time.
Sand blast and clean with brake leaner and let it dry.
Each part will bake at different times...just watch the part after you diary put it in And watch for the surface to glass over, then set timer.
Make sure the parts are not to close to te upper and lower heating elements
As it will cause the color to fade and yellow.
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