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Old 12-28-2009, 06:49 PM
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BIGGDAWG BIGGDAWG is offline
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Default 2005 900 AND 2006 900/700.... Read Before you Buy

From mountainhorse

2005 900 AND 2006 900/700 (aka 755).... Read Before you Buy

I've been getting slammed with emails and PM's from new buyers or prospective buyers of these sleds.

If you are looking into buying one there is more to the purchase than meets the Low dollar figure of these sleds.

There are a lot of swinging deals on these sled, some even brand new for Sub $6000 to as low as $2500 fpr used ones.

There is a reason for this...

Simply, they ususlly take a fair investment of time and money to make them worthy.

They all need a comprehensive clutching kit, mandatory of the $170 3211115 belt, 225 lb track spring, Radiator delete, muffler (aka can), new skis, motor mounts on the 2005's, clutch balancing and re shimming for the new style belt, an airbox (I really like the Fire N Ice airbox above all others), venting, Torque arms/stops on the engine, and many other issues that need to be addressed to make them a good reliable sled.

Of the 2 years, the 2006 is a more refined/evolved design that worked out some of the bugs of the prototype year.

This is above and beyond all of the factory updates that may or may not have been done... If the sled is out of warrany and the updates have not been done, YOU will have to pay for these or do them yourself.

This sled has 19 Updates on it I think PLUS the fuel tank recals (doesnt need to be under warranty for the fuel tank recall)

Other things that need attention on these sleds is the electrical system...protecting it from chaffing...

Most people replace the spindles for easier steering as well.

I love these sleds, but I have a bit more resources at my disposal for working on these sled than the average consumer looking at a first time sled...

The 900's and to a slightly lesser degree the 700's have a tendency to blow belts... Polaris came up with the 3211115 to survive a nuclear attack but it is pricey... If you blow a belt under load on one of these sleds it can be the kis of death for the crank...

Also, the 900's and 755's are about 50 Lbs heavier than one of the newer sleds.... AFTER all the mods are done to shed the easy weight.

Many people have these sleds and love them (I'm one of these people) BUT... You need to know before you buy that you will need to make an additonal investment in the sled in order to have a good unit.

If you are not mechanically inclined, I'd recommend a pass on this...

If you are looking for a good mod platform this may be your ticket on a budget... but the resale is in the toilet... plan on keeping it for a while.

This is just a heads up based on the amount of people that have been contacting me...

There are many "newbies" on this forum with this sled that they have just purchased...

There are many other points that a lot of people on this forum will most likely chime in and add to this...

Good luck and pray for some snow!!!!!
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2005 900 rmk
, slp pipe,cpi can,timbersled rear suspension kit, 159x2 1/8x15, re geared 19/39, Team tied secondary 75-59 .46/ 75-57 .46, 11-76's, slp blue/pink spring,8" bar riser,floats,2006 975 big bore,09 front end,vanamberg bumper extension
Great guys to deal with:treeslut,dmj1,treedog,jafraune,Dragonslayer1,guido xpress, POLZINHUNTER, Fatboyzfrenchy,MacDawg productions,paramuir
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  #2  
Old 12-28-2009, 06:50 PM
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BIGGDAWG BIGGDAWG is offline
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Default From Guidoexpress

Mountain Horse is absolutely correct..as usual..

i for one am one of the newbies to this chassis..i bought ONE OF EACH..HOWEVER...i am very mechaincally skilled and after all the help i have recieved from all the fellow snowesters..i can take the load off him and if anyone needs more info or help i would gladly help you out..

MH has gone above and beyond helping everyone on here...

Do your research as stated above, use the SEARCH function and read read read..i spends at least 1-2 hrs a day reading about the IQ sleds..all years..just to learn what i have..

and then i blow my money on them..haha..

PM me if you need info or help..lets give MH a break for once..
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2005 900 rmk
, slp pipe,cpi can,timbersled rear suspension kit, 159x2 1/8x15, re geared 19/39, Team tied secondary 75-59 .46/ 75-57 .46, 11-76's, slp blue/pink spring,8" bar riser,floats,2006 975 big bore,09 front end,vanamberg bumper extension
Great guys to deal with:treeslut,dmj1,treedog,jafraune,Dragonslayer1,guido xpress, POLZINHUNTER, Fatboyzfrenchy,MacDawg productions,paramuir
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Old 12-28-2009, 06:53 PM
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Default team secondary

here is a pic of the secondary from the manual

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2005 900 rmk
, slp pipe,cpi can,timbersled rear suspension kit, 159x2 1/8x15, re geared 19/39, Team tied secondary 75-59 .46/ 75-57 .46, 11-76's, slp blue/pink spring,8" bar riser,floats,2006 975 big bore,09 front end,vanamberg bumper extension
Great guys to deal with:treeslut,dmj1,treedog,jafraune,Dragonslayer1,guido xpress, POLZINHUNTER, Fatboyzfrenchy,MacDawg productions,paramuir
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  #4  
Old 12-28-2009, 06:55 PM
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BIGGDAWG BIGGDAWG is offline
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Default indydan clutch balancing differances

I see lots of talk out there about clutch balancing ( and lots of different prices )

Let me first say this - I don't think there is anything I do that I enjoy less then balancing drive clutches................( why ???? )

I have heard prices for $30 all the way up to what-ever ??????

What-ever --- Being my price .... $125.00 Been told alot that I am just to high.

lets break down this process alittle.................

Ok lets say 6 clutches get sent in for balancing, and lets say I charges $30.00 each. ( and there all 800 Polaris clutches )

#1 - brand new with no weights or spring in it
#2 - brand new with weights and spring in it.
#3 - used 1000 miles and very clean
#4 - used 2000 miles and alittle dirty
#5 - used with 5000 miles and very dirty
#6 - used with 7500 miles and Behond dirty & completely woren out

Now if I am going to charge $30.00 each ( right.......... )

Ok clutch #1 - has no weights or spring......... ( ok how can i check the belt shimming if it doesn't have weights in it ) You can't !!!! so weights must be installed - Then after shimming is complete they need to be removed.

Ok clutch #2 - has weights and spring..........( ok in order to balance it they must be removed ) Because chances are they are NOT balanced ( and even if they are the balance is not equal thru out the weights length. )

Ok clutch #3 - almost like #2 but has alittle sheave wear in the engagement area.............

Ok clutch #4 - needs to be cleaned and has alittle sheave wear in the engagement area.

Ok clutch #5 - Needs to be cleaned and has alot of sheave wear and both the cover bushing and the movable sheave bushings are woren out.

Ok clutch #6 - all bushings are woren out and all the rollers and woren out and the weights are all woren out.


Now lets just say this.............Ok in my head I say to myself, I only charge $30.00 each so that means with unpackaging and writing it up and actually balancing it and then repacking it and calling for payment then shipping it.............assuming this could ALL be done in 15 minutes each.

thats $120.00 per hour for 4 clutches..........right ????

and the only thing you would have time for in this 15 minutes would be a balance them as they came type balance...........right ???

grab them and throw them on the balancer - drill a few holes and slam them in the box............right ???

Tell me this...............what type of quality balance do you feel these different clutches would receive ???? from clutch #1 to clutch #6 ????

ok, to keep this short I will give you an example of clutch #1 & #6 the two extreme sides of the spectrum..............

clutch #1 - First of all 99.9% of all new Polaris drive clutchs come with 1 .020 thousands shim under the spider..............And once you install weights in the clutch and check the belt to sheave clearance you will find .020 to .050 thou clearance..............I like to see zero to .010 thou MAX to a brand new belt..................what does this mean ???? it means you have to machine the spider ???? Because the clutch has to have a shim and they don't make them any thinner then .020 ( average ) your not suppose to run them without a shim. Ok - now that the clutch is completely toren down we balance the back sheave by itself - why..........Because if the customer ever slits the clutch apart and reassembles it, It will be as close to inbalance as it can get without rebalancing it. Then the clutch is assembled, final shimmed to the best belt clearance you can get with the time alotted. Then the weights must be removed ( remember this clutch didn't come with weights ) Now thats its fully assembled it gets balanced agian.

Now all that being said............How well do you see 15 minutes fitting into, The clutch arriving and being entered in to the computer then doing the work above, Then reboxing it, & then shipping it..............And this was clutch #1 - Brand new ( Clean clutch )

Now lets move on to clutch #5 - ( #6 is a throw away )

First.........Completely disassemble, Then spray with a degreasing agent ( allow to soak at least 15 minutes ) then the clutch goes into a $6500.00 jet spray hot tank for 15 minutes. Then, both the inner & outter shaeves are machined ( because there is a groove woren into the sheaves ) from repeated engagements and belt slipage over the years and miles. Then the cover bushing and movable sheave bushings are replaced at the very minimum with 5000 miles on it. Then new wieghts are installed, Belt to sheave clearance is checked, Spider is then machined to get proper clearance. Then the stationary sheave is balanced, Then clutch is completely assembled, Weights removed again, then final balanced, Then weights are reinstalled, Then it boxed, customers is called for payment, then shipping info is loaded into computer and then shipped.

Time for clutch number #5.......................average 1 -1/2 hours labor.

I don't see where $30.00 fits into doing the job corectly.............

As a matter of fact clutch #5 is the reason I almost always tell them to buy a new clutch and start fresh. #5 is rarely worth the time spent.

Clutches can't all be treated the same.................And chances are in this world.................You get what you pay for.

If you have had a drive clutch servied and balance and you couldn't tell the difference.............But you just felt better simply because you had it done.............Then you didn't get much for your money.

I'm not saying it can't be made better for $30.00, But its a slim chance unless it was a new clutch to start with.

after I get done with a $125.00 balance job to a 5000 mile clutch I feel
like I didn't make a bit of profit and the customer got the deal of a life time.

Tip - If your drive clutch is machined and shimmed and balanced properly, all the other little seperate weight balancing done is great but to needed.

I have seen 800 motors go 15,000 miles plus with good cases, that had drive clutch weights that were over a full gram out of balance.

balancing a polaris clutch without machining the spider is almost impossible.
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Welch Mn 55089
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E-mail - indydan1@hotmail.com
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2005 900 rmk
, slp pipe,cpi can,timbersled rear suspension kit, 159x2 1/8x15, re geared 19/39, Team tied secondary 75-59 .46/ 75-57 .46, 11-76's, slp blue/pink spring,8" bar riser,floats,2006 975 big bore,09 front end,vanamberg bumper extension
Great guys to deal with:treeslut,dmj1,treedog,jafraune,Dragonslayer1,guido xpress, POLZINHUNTER, Fatboyzfrenchy,MacDawg productions,paramuir
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  #5  
Old 12-29-2009, 05:55 AM
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Treeslut Treeslut is offline
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Talking

How late did u stay up last night, dame BD did u even get any sleep. But its cool you got a lot of the info moved
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