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Old 12-01-2010, 10:08 AM
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Default XP hanging high idle?

I know some people say just give it a blip of the choke to settle the rpm's and others say give the air screws a 1/4 - 3/8 turn out......

I am looking at trying to reach those air screws and have pulled the lower airbox and intake boots. I can feel the plastic cap on each screw but is it something you can adjust by turning the cap or do you need to pull the carbs and remove the caps to get at the screw?

will this even solve the problem or is there something else I should be looking at?
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Old 12-01-2010, 11:13 AM
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The white knobs are fuel screws, just turn them out 1/3 turn and that will likely take care of it.
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Old 12-01-2010, 12:44 PM
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My 2010 is hanging up also, strange thing is upon start it idles good, at 2k rpm. once motor warms up it idles at 3800-4k? Motor is stock. Only motor aftermarket accessory is a CF can and I don't think this would affect idle speed.

Any idea's why my idle is doing this? When I shut down for a few minutes to take a quick break and then re start the machine the idle is at 2k again, till it warms up??
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Old 12-01-2010, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Winter Brew View Post
The white knobs are fuel screws, just turn them out 1/3 turn and that will likely take care of it.

Thanks Paul......by the way....the RB clutch setup I got from you pulls hard. Very happy with it!!! Thanks!

Haven't got into any long climbs yet but so far in the deep trees and tight boondocking.....rpm's are 8200-8300 clicker 4.

no more searching and wandering issues with rpm

I had paid the dealer to install their clutch setup when I bought the machine and so when I ripped everything apart, I found they had the same ramps you supplied with your kit already installed. theirs did not have the numbers ground off...LOL But they had left out the spring guide in the primary...they claim it's not necessary but the primary spring had gouged the cup pretty good on one side.

Thanks again
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Old 12-01-2010, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Winter Brew View Post
The white knobs are fuel screws, just turn them out 1/3 turn and that will likely take care of it.
good to know, my 2010 is doing the same thing
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Old 12-02-2010, 12:14 AM
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had my sled at dealer today for some carb cleanup. They said they installed (i think 2 thousands) shim under needles. they said all 2008 needed this to fatten midrange and should cure hanging high idle
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Old 12-02-2010, 04:30 AM
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Brew.if you back the a/f screws out isnt that fattening it up(more fuel).

when mine hangs up i hit it with my BIG Chevy hammer.straightens her right out.
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Old 12-02-2010, 10:30 AM
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2110...that white plastic spring guide is actually VERY important. Alot of guys and dealers take them out, but then the spring rubs against the aluminum spring cap and all that aluminum dust makes things wear out alot faster, not to mention makes a gummy mess.

xpxpensiv, yes, out with the screws is richer (more fuel from just off idle to about 1/4 throttle).
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Old 12-07-2010, 07:30 PM
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Make sure to check your intake boots for any leaks. This will also cause the increase in your idle. I just got done doin a bunch of motor work to my 08 fired it up for the first time the other night in hopes i was gonna get out for a test and tune, and noticed during idle that my intake boots were delaminating and i was suck'n air causing a high idle. Just spray carb cleaner down around them with it running and if it starts to choke it then you got a leak.

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Old 12-08-2010, 07:36 AM
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Turning out the fuel screw will act like making the pilot jet larger. The shim under the needle will make the mid range a little fatter (more fuel). I like to bump the pilots up from factory ex 17.5 to a 22. This eliminates the lean spot on idle and no worries about the fuel screw being backed out to far.
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