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  #31  
Old 12-18-2014, 04:36 PM
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You had asked about the mounts... Hopefully I will be using just this setup... I'm using the stock 1999 mxz 600 non h.o. mounts in the front/ crankshop 670 swap plate.. Which has 1/2" rubber spacer bottom/top in the rear... Carbs Clear... Gonna get a zx chassis air box and mod to fit or fab one from scratch out of aluminum
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  #32  
Old 12-18-2014, 04:37 PM
BUILD IT 2 BREAK IT BUILD IT 2 BREAK IT is offline
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  #33  
Old 12-18-2014, 04:58 PM
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As for update... Splicing harnesses as we speak
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  #34  
Old 02-10-2015, 11:00 PM
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So I need some help...

With the holidays over and some recent snow... I'm back on the sled...

I bought a 1997 670 main harness and cut it and spliced the ends of the zx chassis 600 harness (original) so I can use the factory disconnects for the hood and handlebars/switches... installed that...

Installed the ce compontants anti stab kit which is universal... Yeah right.... It doesn't allow you to run your limiter straps at the factory location you have to angle them in because of the wheel placement... I cranked the straps down good but will probably end up rubbing... If so it's going in the trash...

Now the real problem...


I was working on installing the motor till I ran into a little carb cleareance issue...

I have the crankshop 670 swap plate which will not work with the 44mm carbs I have... I don't see how it would work period... I have it installed in the correct orientation and and with motor bolted on and setting in place.. Using the shorty boots and said carbs.... There's about 3/4" between carb face and jack shaft... The carbs also are lower then the jackshaft by about 1 1/4...

There's no getting anything on those fuckers... Not k&n nothing...

I will post a pic... I know thru research this is a known problem but I was hoping that was what the plate was for...

Now...

I can build a air box to fit out of aluminum but I need just a little more room to be able to drop down and slide on the carbs without hitting the jackshaft... But I need like 3/4 of an inch...

So I'm thinking...

If I take the motor plate and weld the hole shut and drill new ones... I could move the motor forward the distance I need for cleareance... But I would be lengthing the belt...

I don't know what I'm gonna use for a belt anyways... I will be using now a 1998 670 primary since the one I have won't fit cause the taper... And the roller secondary...

Can some one tell me how to go about measuring on the sled itself what length belt will fit...

Cause if I have can figure out how to do that I could choose a belt by size and drill the holes accordingly to also at the same time give myself room for the airbox problem...

See where I'm going with this...

Pissed doesn't justify my level of happiness with said machine right now...
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